Experiencing Laid-Back Kochi with family

Kochi is one of those cities in India where you can easily witness the many stages of colonization and resistance. You can see Christian churches, visit Hindu temples, wal Synanogue Lane in Jew Town, and hear the Muslim calls to prayer. Besides the native Malayalam and the widely spoken English, some locals can speak Portuguese or French. You can also experience ancient arts like Kathakali or enjoy traditional South Indian music.  There are plenty of things to do in Kochi with a family.

A port city with a laid-back vibe, Kochi (or Cochin) is in the itinerary for most foreigners visiting South India. After three months traveling in India, we found comforting familiarity in the general vibe of the city. It was refreshing to dress according to the weather, or go for a french toast at a local cafe.

Although Kochi is a large international tourist hub, you can still experience the local traditions, especially if you stay in one of many home stays in the city. Like much of the south, people are usually friendly and there is a sense of safety. Here are some of the experiences we had, and some recommendations for anyone planning a visit to Kochi.

Ernakulam vs. Fort Kochi

There are two distinct areas within the city of Kochi. To the east, there is Ernakulam, the mainland bustling section of the city where most people live, and where you can find large chain hotels. To the west there is Fort Kochi, the laid-back historical part of the town where you can find plenty of cafes, monuments, home stays, and designer stores. We stayed in Fort Kochi, which we recommend if you want to immerse in the tranquility of the historical area. A ferry connecting the two parts of the city runs several times a day and takes half an hour.

Keralan Cuisine

We’ve heard that South Indian cuisine is delicious, and we can attest to it. Keralan cuisine revolves around coconut, curry leaves and masalas, a blend of spices. We tried a variety of coconut-milk based curries, plenty of fresh fish and other delicacies. You don’t need to visit a fancy restaurant to get the best of this cuisine. In fact, one of our favorites was Spice Root, an unpretentious eatery run by husband and wife who mix fresh ingredients and serve with the warmest Keralan hospitality.

Breakfasts in Kerala are something we hadn’t experienced before. An everyday breakfast includes breads (usually made out of rice) with a savory curry and/or chutneys, fruit and some dessert made out of bananas or coconut. It feels as if breakfast is the most important meal of the day. I was so excited with everything we tried that I took a cooking class. It allowed me to get a grasp of the use of spices for different dishes, and get some tips to use at home. 

From Fort Kochi to Mattancherry and Jew Town

Being a port city, a leisurely walk around will take you to beautiful sites. Luckily you don’t need to walk much because the old part of the town is relatively small. It doesn’t get much better than snapping a picture of the fishing nets at sunset time, the morning fish market, or the centuries-old houses repurposed for cafes.  

I joined a photography walking session as part of the Cochin Heritage Festival in December 2024. We walked from Fort Kochi to Matacherry and Jew Town. This could be an awesome, contemplative self-walking route, as you get to see many of the local activities happening. People receiving loads of grains for storage, locals biking around or just hanging out. There is also the beauty of the architecture, old houses that are standing in place by some sort of miracle, or large indoor courtyards that are used for tuk-tuk parking. If you look carefully, you can spot the Holy Cross Church of Mattancherry, a small shrine tucked between shops and of historical significance for Syrian Catholics.

Jew Town is the most instagramable part of the city, where there is a large spice market, crafts and cafes. It’s nice just to walk around and be immersed in the shops with elaborate crafts, needle work, or giant antiques. 

Kathakali Performance

This is a must if you visit South India. One of the most famous theaters is the K V  Kathakali Center. At the time of our visit there were two daily performances. There is a one-hour period during which performers apply make-up. Tourists are welcomed to watch for insight at the detail and technique. 

The performance starts with an introduction of Kathakali, a combination of theater and classical dance that originated in the 17th century. It’s quite complex as there are about 101 plays, out of which we experienced a glimpse of only one. The performers demonstrate a sign language used during the performance, eye movements and the general plot. The play itself lasts about 20 minutes, and it’s fascinating to see the two actors using elaborate clothes and make-up and performing the plot with the classical music in the background. After the act, performers are available for photo sessions which we hesitantly took advantage of. 

Traveling with kids

In our opinion, Fort Kochi is a pleasant city for a short stay if you are traveling with kids. Unlike Mysore, where we spent a month with our daughter, there are not many activities targeted to kids, and the combination of high temperature with high humidity makes it challenging to explore historical sights or venture outdoors.

We enjoyed the Nehru park which is near the water. It has the shade of large trees, and had been recently updated with new equipment. It is located close to the Chinese Fishing Nets, near a sidewalk brimming with vendors selling fresh fish, plastic toys, snacks, and artcrafts. For a longer exploration, we took the local ferry to Ernakulam which takes about 30 minutes, and then took a tuk-tuk to Subhash park, which has a larger playground. 

Although you can find all necessities in Fort Kochi, specialty items might be more difficult to get. We did not see large supermarkets, and made some of our Christmas purchases in Ernakulam. If you need anything specific it would be a good idea to bring it from a larger city if you can.

Things to do outside Kochi

From Fort Kochi it is possible to enjoy excursions to see the rural life of the backwaters, featuring fishing and rice paddies. It is also possible to visit nice beaches. One and a half hours south, we enjoyed a 12-day stay at Marari Beach, a quiet place with plenty of home stays and a few restaurants where we could relax and have a great time approaching the holidays.