Ladakh, India: Background Knowledge Before You Visit
Once we decided to include India in our family gap year travels, visiting Ladakh became a priority. I have many happy memories from my time leading semester trips for U.S. high school students there between 2008 and 2010. It was special to revisit as a family, as we now have some shared memories of the region.
Given its location in the high Himalayas, Ladakh is quite remote with respect to other parts of India. Still, it is rather easy to visit if you’re in the country. Several daily flights go between Delhi and Leh, Ladakh’s eastern district capital. That being said, you need to go beyond Leh. To fully appreciate Ladakh and its beauty (which rivals that found anywhere in the Himalayas), it is essential to experience village life.
Having visited several times I’d thought I’d share a few perspectives and background knowledge on Ladakh. Naturally its religion, culture, and politics are immensely more complex than what I can convey in a short article. This will be a quick intro and I will share a few suggestions for further reading.
Environmental fragility
The landscapes of Ladakh are strange and beautiful. They consist of brown and rocky mountains with the striking contrast of thin, green valleys or hillsides in warmer seasons. In winter, snow on the mountains creates its own sharp contrast.
Ladakh’s elevation ranges between roughly 2,550 and 7,750 meters and is inhabited at altitudes up to about 4,500 meters. Many visitors fly into Leh, which sits at an elevation of 3,500 meters (about 11,500 feet). This implies certain health considerations discussed in the “Visiting Ladakh” section below.
The mountain desert climate limits what can be grown and where. Some crops are irrigated entirely from glacial streams, which only come in limited months when glaciers receive enough sunlight to produce meltwater. Climate change has made life in Ladakh’s fragile environment even more challenging. Ladakhis have long had to deal with scarcity and extremes, but in recent years numerous initiatives have been born to help mitigate the effects of climate change and maximize scarce resources. A few examples:
Ladakh’s “Ice Man,” Chewang Norphel has found inventive ways to divert glacial runoff to allow for more crop irrigation. The Students’ Education and Cultural Movement of Ladakh (SECMOL) campus, once a barren plateau, was greenified by its founders and volunteers and serves as an eco-friendly school. (SECMOL is a must-visit for anyone with a desire to learn a lot about Ladakh and engage locally.) Those with an interest in environmental initiatives should also look into the Ladakh Ecological Development Group and the Snow Leopard Conservancy India Trust.
Political fragility
Ladakh is divided into two districts: Buddhist-majority Leh (where most tourists stay), and Muslim-majority Kargil. By and large, Ladakh’s Muslim and Buddhist residents have long lived in mutual harmony. However, Ladakh’s ties to bordering Kashmir have in some ways drawn it into the conflict of that region.
Until 2019 Ladakh was part of the former Indian state called Jammu and Kashmir (J&K). In that year the Indian government split J&K into two union territories, to be administered centrally from Delhi. Many Ladakhis had wanted a status separate from J&K, but with the new union territory designation the Indian government limited Ladakh’s local legislative authority. This came as a blow to Ladakhis who would like to be the stewards of their own environment, to paraphrase local leader Sonam Wangchuk. (Incidentally, it was the same Sonam Wangchuk and partners who founded the Students’ Education and Cultural Movement of Ladakh, SECMOL, mentioned above, and which we’ve written about.)
It’s not surprising that the Indian state would want to exact direct control over land use in Ladakh. Ladakh borders China and Pakistan, both of which occupy land to which India maintains claim. More specifically, Ladakh borders Tibet and Kashmir, two regions whose disputes have received international attention at one time or another. Military barracks are some of the first things you will notice during any local excursion in Ladakh.
As of 2025 many Ladakhis continue to agitate for recognition under India’s Sixth Schedule, a status granting autonomy to local populations over decisions pertaining to their environment and culture.
Crossroads of religion and culture
Tibetan Buddhism is the majority religion in eastern Ladakh. Many current traditions developed in Tibet, but Buddhism initially spread from Kashmir during Ashoka’s reign in the 3rd century BCE. It wasn’t until eleven centuries later that Islam spread in the region.
Before the border between India and China was strictly enforced, many Ladakhis went to Lhasa in Tibet for monastic training. Pastoral communities in Ladakh’s Changtang region, too, would freely dwell in lands that are now politically part of Chinese Tibet. Most eastern Ladakhi villages have a Buddhist temple. Prayer flags, prayer wheels, and mani stones (usually inscribed with the Om Mane Padme Hum mantra) can be seen everywhere. Buddhist festivals with music, chanting, masked dancing, and vendors are major events at certain times of year.
Residents of the Kargil district, meanwhile, by and large practice Shia Islam. Mosques announce the five daily calls to prayer and it is not uncommon to see pictures of Iran’s Ayatollah Khomeini prominently displayed. Tourists will note certain visible differences tied to religion including cuisine (Muslims often eat meat whereas Buddhists more often stick to vegetarian food), as well as the roles of women in society and styles of dress.
Apricots, Barley, Chuskol, and Chang
Anywhere that trees grow you are likely to see poplars and willows, but apricots are the primary fruit tree in the region. Apricots are dried in abundance, sold everywhere, and not to be missed. If you have the experience of a Ladakhi homestay, you may also see a bowl containing apricot kernels along with puffed barley, a kind of local snack.
Barley is Ladakh’s staple grain, used for making dishes including chhutagi (folded pasta often served as a stew for special occasions), sku (a thick stew), mok-moks (dumplings), and thukpa (a kind of noodle soup). Ladakhis also eat barley in its flour form, toasted or raw, and sometimes along with a cup of butter tea (which foreigners usually choose to skip).
Chang is a fermented barley beverage with a low alcohol content and a nice tangy flavor. That said, you’ll want to make water your drink of choice until you acclimate to the elevation. A thermos of chuskol (boiled water) may come in handy in cold weather, when you want water for tea or coffee, or even just to ensure that the water is safe to drink.
As mentioned above, while meals in Buddhist eastern Ladakh are more often vegetarian, mutton is widely eaten in Muslim households and is available (along with chicken) in many Leh restaurants.
In Leh you will also find staples from the rest of India, most notably rice and dal (lentils). If you have a low spice tolerance, you will likely have an easier time in Ladakh as compared with the rest of India.
Many restaurants close during the off-season (mid-October to April) so options will be fewer then. When it’s open, we particularly enjoy Tibetan Kitchen restaurant in Leh.
Visiting Ladakh
Leh
We’d suggest starting your trip with at least two days of downtime (probably in Leh) to adjust to the altitude. I’ve been told that because of the scarcity of vegetation and therefore lower oxygen levels (Ladakh is a desert), adjustment can be more difficult than in other high-altitude regions. Whether that is the reason or not, I’ve had a harder time adjusting in Ladakh than in other high mountain regions I’ve visited. Before traveling, consult your doctor about any health issues, as well as preventive and/or treatment measures to keep in mind.
Travelers from outside of India may find that a trip to Ladakh is not worth it for any less than two weeks given the time to acclimate and the sheer size and remoteness of the region.
Leh is a small city but with plenty (and a growing number) of guesthouses and hotels. Many of them are in the sections called Karzoo or Upper Karzoo, about ten minutes walking uphill from the main market area. It’s a good option for a slightly more tranquil stay. During our recent visit we enjoyed roaming the narrow alleys near the Sankar Gompa (monastery) in the same area.
Leh consists of a few main market streets, one of which was converted to a pedestrian-only section in recent years. The city is quite easily walkable once you’ve adjusted to the elevation.
A short drive from Leh, Choglamsar is the local center of Tibetan culture. There are fewer options for accommodation and dining in Choglamsar but we enjoyed the hard-to-find Cafe NH-3 (look up for the sign and enter through a garage-like entrance around the corner).
Ladakh’s western district (and capital of the same name), Kargil, has not seen anything of the tourist influx that Leh has, though the region is arguably just as beautiful. This 2025 BBC article should be of interest to those considering a visit to the Kargil side.
Trekking and touring
Trekking from village to village may be the best way to experience Ladakh. Treks can range from a couple of days (e.g. Rumbak to Stok) to several weeks. Staying with local families and camping are both options and local companies can also arrange for horses to accompany you if needed. Tour companies (such as Samsara Expeditions and the Ladakhi Women’s Travel Company) are equipped to set up either form of trek. Their guides should be knowledgeable about routes, safety, local sites, and host family life.
Almost any trekking route is sure to please. For something on the easier side, Sham Valley offers the option to stop more frequently to make each daily walk a bit shorter. We opted not to trek during this trip as we were with our three-year-old daughter. However, if we had taken her trekking, we would have headed to Sham with a guide (and possibly a horse). If camping is your thing, look into trekking in Zanskar (Darcha to Padum is a wonderful route). It’s even possible to arrive in Ladakh via trekking routes through Zanskar. In this case you could travel to Manali or nearby first and go from there via road to the trek starting point.
In all cases we’d recommend a guide. There are routes that may be a little more easily navigable without a guide, but don’t underestimate the very real possibility of turning down the wrong valley.
Tour companies also offer multi-stop tours via shared or private transport. A popular route goes to the Nubra Valley for two or three nights and crosses the Khardung La (one of the highest motorable passes in the world). In my opinion, organizing a visit to a few villages with homestays, trekking or not, is more interesting than a whirlwind tour by car. Even within most Ladakhi villages, wonderful day hikes or short walks are possible.
Monasteries such as the famous Alchi and Lamayuru gompas also draw plenty of visitors. Lamayuru is situated in a beautiful village and Alchi is known as the oldest monastery in Ladakh. Closer to Leh, Thiksey monastery is worth a visit and has a large library. You can join the morning prayers at many monasteries. Some have restrictions against photography inside.
You can read about a few specific Ladakhi villages in our article covering a short road-trip from Ladakh to Kashmir.
Packing and provisions
Temperature fluctuations can be dramatic in Ladakh, depending on cloud cover. The sun can be intense so bring your sunscreen and hat. For cloudy weather and colder months you’ll want warm layers, even for sitting inside at times. The snow can be blinding so bring sunglasses.
Naturally you’ll want good shoes for walking and trekking (even if many locals tread through mountain terrain in flip-flops).
You’re not likely to find much variety in stores outside of Leh and Kargil cities. When making an excursion into rural Ladakh it’s advisable to bring your favorite snacks and toiletries from the city. Please don’t contribute to the increasing problem of litter in Ladakh. Dispose of waste appropriately.
Headscarves may be a consideration for women traveling in western Ladakh. Johana had been wondering if she should wear a headscarf in Muslim regions. She found it to be unnecessary and opted not to do so but female travelers may feel that they blend in more readily when wearing a headscarf. It is by no means required.
Handy words and phrases
English is fairly widely spoken among current generations of Ladakhis, though youwill find that it’s more prevalent in Leh and Kargil than in villages. Nevertheless, as with anywhere, it’s a good idea to at least learn a few basic local phrases.
Jullay – [Pronounced “joo-lay.”] This is the most common way of saying both “hello” and “goodbye.” It can also be used for “thank you” (along with the similar o-lay). Lay is commonly added to words and phrases as it shows respect.
Khamzang in-a lay – Are you well? // Khamzang in lay – I’m well
Zhimpo rak-lay – [The pronunciation of zhimpo begins as with the ending of the words “beige” and “rouge.” rak-le is pronounced “rock-lay”] This means “it’s delicious” and is particularly useful in Ladakhi homestays.
Chu – water // Chu tangmo – cold water // Chu skol – boiled water
tsapik – a little bit
Zumo rak – “It hurts”
Gyala rak – “It’s good” // Ma gyala rak – “It’s very good”
Further reading
If you’re serious about language learning or at least want to have small conversations in Ladakhi, the best book to buy is called “Getting Started in Ladakhi” by Rebecca Norman (Melong Publications). It’s a portable size and contains useful insights in addition to the language basics.
Abdul Ghani Sheik’s Forsaking Paradise is a beautiful little collection of short stories focused on the region. Jonathan Mingle’s Fire and Ice and Helena Norberg-Hodge’s Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh are both worth reading. And for a deeper dive into history and culture check out Janet Rizvi’s Ladakh: Crossroads of High Asia.
