Salta to Cafayate via Route 68
Often we describe the places we’ve been rather than the path that took us there. The road between Salta and Cafayate is one of those paths that brought to mind cliches about life existing in the journey and not the destination. I wished I could take photos with the blink of an eye, and yet I was reluctant to blink for fear of missing something.
The road from Salta to Cafayate is about 200km (125 miles), and can be done in three hours. We spent more than five hours on the road including a stop for lunch and several view points.
After leaving Salta the road took us to Cerritos, a semi-urban area where we had to drive slowly due to traffic and several crossings. The entire road from there to Cafayate is a two-lane road in decent condition, mostly flat and easy to drive. About two-thirds of the drive is through a green valley full of crops, after which the landscape changes dramatically to red rocky mountains as it approaches the town of Cafayate. There aren’t many towns on the way but there are some places to stop and have a snack (empanadas, tamales, humitas, tortillas). Here are some of the stops we made on the way, most of which have signs as you approach:
Parrilla D’mi Tata
We stopped at Parilla D’mi Tata by chance and after seeing the place we decided to have lunch. Out in back of the restaurant we saw three large ovens and a huge soup pot in a wooden stove. Good signs! It was early for lunch, so we had a bunch of empanadas (just in case)! We highly recommend this restaurant for a lunch stop about an hour south of Salta.
Mirador Quebrada las Conchas
After the restaurant we passed some small towns but there is no apparent development that you can see from the road, so we did not stop for a while. About an hour from the restaurant we entered the Natural Reserve Quebrada las Conchas. This is where the landscape turns from green mountains to red. From here the road borders the river almost all the way to Cafayate. There is a great view point shortly after the reserve starts, just a preface to what is about to come. After this all the stops are close to each other.
Garganta del Diablo
This is an impressive rock formation in the mountains, which by some accounts is 15 million years old. It takes a rounded tubular shape, similar to a throat, and judging by the color and size (any human here looks very small), someone thought it belonged to the devil. There is a parking lot at the entrance, and then it’s a short hike/climb into the “throat.”
Anfiteatro
It’s less than five-minute drive from Garaganta del Diablo. You need only walk the equivalent of about a city block to get to the interior, so it’s highly accessible for kids, elders and just anyone.
Mirador Tres Cruces
The view here opens up to a green valley amidst the red mountains. Worth a stop and a deep breath!
Los Castillos
In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful sights. The river gently makes its way around castle-like rock formations. This reminded me of some ancient castles in India that were built by the river for protection.
After this there are a couple of other stops (El Oblisco, La Yesera), but we only took a glance from the car. It does not take long to do any of the stops, so it’s very easy to hop in and out the car. We also saw a herd of goats on the road. Every curve in the 80kms approaching Cafayate has breathtaking landscapes.
